Adding plinth blocks and rosettes to your door casing will turn your door from average to amazing! Plinth blocks and rosettes are small architectural details that are easy to install and can solve a tricky transition problem.
I've rounded up a variety of different ways you can use plinth blocks and rosettes to update your door trim. These decorative elements can be found at the bottom plinths or top rosettes of door trim. You can use one or the other, or both! Windows only use rosettes in the top corners. They're more commonly found in traditional style homes, but I'll show you examples of more contemporary or rustic looks as well.
Plinth blocks are a great way to fix an awkward transition between door trim and baseboards. When we turned a window into a sliding glass door, I tried to find a similar style to the existing trim. But it turned out to be much thinner than the baseboards. To solve the problem, I used plinth blocks that are slightly deeper and taller than the baseboards.
You can see how I installed the plinth blocks here. The result is a much cleaner look that fits perfectly! My next task is to remove and replace the quarter round trim for a more consistent appearance.
The tall baseboards line up with the top of the plinth blocks, which then line up with the door trim. A simple plinth block breaks up all those lines and keeps it from looking too busy. The recessed detail in the block echoes the paneled door, and everything is painted a gorgeous dark gray for a cohesive look. Fancy trim would look out of place in the bathroom below. Instead, they used 1 x 6 boards and a rectangular plinth block stained the same color as the vanity for a rustic look.
Note that they didn't even use baseboards, so the plinth blocks are purely decorative. Rosettes are the cousins of the plinth block, and are found at the top of window and door trim.
If you are struggling to get the mitered corners to fit just right, this is an easy solution. Corner Block 2. Corner Block 3. Corner Block 4. Corner Block 5. Corner Block 6. Corner Block 7.
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Next, he places the strip perpendicular to the casing at its outside edge, resets the compass to the distance between the largest gap and the mark on the scrap, and scribes the profile of the wall onto the scrap piece as shown in "Fill in the Gap" 3. After cutting along that line with a jigsaw, he applies carpenter's glue to the profiled scrap piece and slides it into the gap so wall and trim marry perfectly as shown in "Fill in the Gap" 4. Hold a straightedge across the window; check that each jamb is flush with the wall.
If they protrude, plane them down to the wall. If the jambs fall short of the wall, measure the largest gap between the straightedge and each jamb. Plane off any excess. Using the inside face of the jamb as a guide, draw a reveal line along the edges of all three jambs. Tip: For a tight fit between the casing and jamb, plane a slight bevel into the wall-side edge of the jamb. Place a side casing against the wall, aligned with the reveal line on a side jamb.
Mark the wall at the casing's outside edge. Repeat for the opposite jamb. Measure between the marks, add 2 inches, and cut the stool to this length. Place the stool face down on the sill with its back edge against the sill trim. Mark where the top of the trim meets the stool's end. Keeping the back corner against the sill trim, slide the end of the upside-down stool against the jamb.
Make a vertical mark where the end of the stool touches the jamb. Connect the two marks with a square and make an X in the area defined by the lines; this is the waste that will be cut out to make the rabbet. Mark the stool's inside edge 1 inch from each end and place it across the opening. Mark where the stool's edge meets the inside edge of the jambs. Set a square at those marks and draw "jamb lines" across the top of the stool. Rout the desired profile into the stool's edge and ends.
Align the jamb lines with the jambs' inside edges. Set the compass to the distance from the stool's back edge to the sill trim. Hold the compass point against the wall and scribe lines from each end of the stool to the jamb line. Following the scribe lines, cut a notch into each end of the stool with a jigsaw. Test fit the stool; fine-tune it with a jigsaw, chisel, or sandpaper.
Apply a bead of glue to the sill. Cut a square end on a piece of casing and stand that end on the stool. Mark where its inside edge meets the head jamb's reveal line.
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